We’re madly in love with the islands off of Mokpo. Jeollanamdo’s islands have been the site of battles, tragedy and a vibrant fishing industry. For now, they are a well-kept Korean secret.
|Be sure to cycle the switchback road. Worth the effort!|
Ironically, this article may have even cemented Heuksando’s place on our list for this summer’s 2nd ever (and 6 years later) Korea Without a Care journey. If we go, it will be my 3rd time to Heuksando, and this time I’m going to have to try the hongeo for the first time. I need to join my Jeolla brethren and learn the ways of the hongeo.
| The ferry terminal to Heuksando in Mokpo is right up there ^
|Top timetable is departing Mokpo, bottom timetable is arriving in Mokpo. Ferries leave Heuksando at 9, 11, 3:30 and 4:20, and arrive in Mokpo at 10:50, 1:00, 5: 30 and 6:10 respectively.|
Tours- I’ve read that for about 10,000 won or so you can take a tour bus around the island in an hour. I’ve bused and walked the eastern half of the island and find it to be drop-dead gorgeous, hilly and mostly nice roads. Again, my friend who rented the motorbike raved about the rocky shores and beautiful overlooks around the island. I’d consider doing this for a quick look around. Also for a bit more you can do a 2 hour ferry boat around the island.
You can hike, bike, lounge by the beach or just walk the roads. One of the best road runs I have had in Korea was from Sosari Beach heading south. The road climbed up a mountain and gave me a breathtaking overlook. Maybe 3 cars passed me. Don’t count on your legs to get you all around the island as it is bigger and hillier than it might appear. You can also see this blog for more information on hiking and some spectacular photos of the sunset from one of the island’s peaks. You can find Sosari Beach by taking a bus from the ferry terminal. Someone should be able to point you the right way.
|The bus ride to Sosari beach (see red pin) is beautiful. Up and down huge mountain roads. Taxis are also an option but expect to pay at least 10,000 won per person.|
Word of warning
Heuksando is way out there. Just getting there takes some patience. Also, the bus around the island isn’t all that frequent. Taxis are scarce as are shops once you get away from the main town of Yeri. You have to be flexible, prepared and patient if you go to Heuksando. The reward is there, but you will earn it. See the challenges at this blog.